Let's Get Dirty!
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Join me for a fun workshop at my home in Lindsay, talking all things dahlia! I'll explain planting, fertilizing and bug control to grow the strongest, healthiest and most abundant plants . You'll have lots of opportunity to ask questions and learn about different varieties.
Email to register: curlygirlgardening@gmail.com
Workshop is $75 per person, limited space available. 1-3pm
Growing Dahlias
Dahlias are gorgeous flowers, grown from tubers, that come in every colour, except blue.
They range in size from 1" pom poms to 15" fluffy petalled varieties, known as ‘dinner plate dahlias’.
Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall. There are many different forms of dahlias, from tightly petalled
ball types, to peony & waterlily, cactus, collarette and more. You can never be bored with dahlias.
Tubers can be planted outside after last frost. Expect blooms mid-August to Frost. For earlier blooms,
start tubers inside 6-8 weeks before last frost and plant outside after last frost. Expect blooms early July.
Dahlias grown from cuttings will often bloom before a tuber, as they have a head start.
Rooted cuttings are identical to the mother plant and will produce flowers and tubers in the same
season, just as it would from a tuber. Cuttings are a great way to increase your stock at no expense.
Dahlias require at least 6 hours of sun. Ideally 8+ hours with a bit of shade midday.
Plant tubers 5” deep and water lightly. No need to water again till you start to see sprouting.
Dahlias are sensitive to rot, so plant in well drained soil.
If planting from a cutting, bury down 2-3 sets of leaves. (Strip off leaves first.)
Be sure to stake your dahlia when planting.
Dahlias are heavy feeders and thirsty plants. They need lots of nitrogen, so mix in well-rotted
manure or compost to soil when planting and fertilize weekly. I also add a handful of alfalfa
pellets, and bone meal to the hole when planting. I use seaweed fertilizer throughout the
season, till mid-August, but any type of fertilizer will do. Look for something with a higher
phosphorus level, such as a 10-15-10 to encourage blooming.
Dahlias don’t like soggy soil, or the tubers can rot, but they don’t like to dry out either.
The best way to test your soil is to stick your finger down a couple inches. If it is cool and damp,
don’t water. It’s always best to water deeply, less often, then frequently in small amounts.
To get a stronger, bushier plant with more stems and blooms, pinch your plant back
when it is approximately 12” tall. Pinch off the top 2-3 sets of leaves.
I know this sounds scary to do, but you’ll never regret it!
Dahlias are a “cut & come again” flower. Make yourself a bouquet! Take time to cut off
dead flowers so they don’t go to seed. The more you cut, the more you get!
Tubers must be dug up in the fall and stored for winter. They are best stored in
plastic bins with peat or vermiculate in a cool environment.
Follow me online for more tips & tricks throughout the season.
I hope I’ve made a dahlia addict out of you!
Contact Me
Pick up or Viewing by Appointment Only
49 Simcoe St. Lindsay, ON